Tern Island - at Work
Tern from water
       
  Tern Island, French Frigate Shoals, is a tiny 30-acre coral island located in the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, approximately 490 miles WNW of Oahu. The island is maintained as a field station in the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS). It provides critical breeding habitat to millions of nesting seabirds, endangered Hawaiian Monk Seals, and threatened Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles. The infrastructure on Tern Island, inherited from the US military, enables scientists to use Tern Island as a base for research. Because of its remote location, and the sensitivity of the breeding animals to human disturbance, the general public is not admitted on Tern Island. Only specially permitted biologists and researchers are allowed on the island. If you want to go, try volunteering for the USFWS. You'll have one of the most memorable experiences of your lifetime.  

Tern's welcome sign

       
  Tern Island from the air  

History
In 1909, by Executive Order 1019, President Theodore Roosevelt established what is now known as the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge. This Refuge includes the lands and waters of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands from Nihoa Island to Pearl and Hermes Atolls. One atoll within the Refuge is French Frigate Shoals, and that is where Tern Island is found. In the 1940's, with the looming war, the U.S. military occupied French Frigate Shoals. The U.S. Navy used Tern Island as a stopover and refueling point for aircraft flying between Hawaii and Midway. To make the island large enough to accommodate landing planes, the Navy enlarged the island by building a retaining steel wall, blasting and dredging a channel around the island, and using the blasted coral to fill in the wall. The result was an island shaped like an aircraft carrier. Later they turned over occupation to the U.S. Coast Guard who used the island for operation of a Loran station. In 1979, after technology replaced Loran, the U.S. Coast Guard gave management authority of the island back to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Since 1979, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has worked to restore wildlife populations of French Frigate Shoals back to pre World War II levels.

       
  Housing and living arrangements
All Tern Island residents are housed in the old coast guard barracks. In addition to dormitory-style bedrooms and bathrooms, the barracks contain a common room, kitchen, and food storage room. The kitchen is equipped with the basics and cooking is done on a propane stove. A several-month supply of canned and dried food is stored carefully in a large pantry. Island residents cook communally on a rotating schedule and usually eat together.
 

barracks common room

       
  Sarah K plane and barracks  

Transportation and supplies
Everything and everyone arrives on Tern in one of two ways: by boat or plane. A plate flies between Honolulu and Tern about once a month. It shuttles scientists to and from the island, carries mail, and occasionally brings groceries. Heavier items or larger field crews arrive by boat. Large ships anchor well outside of the reef, so smaller boats shuttle the equipment and personnel between the island and ship. "Receiving" occurs at the dock, where heavy items are lifted up and out of the boats using a crane.

       
 
Electricity and water
The main source of electricity on the island is a bank of solar panels. A back-up dielsel generator is used only when needed, usually after consecutive cloudy days. Fresh water is generated through a reverse osmosis system, and much of the solar-generated electricity goes to this important task.

Communications
Residents on Tern communicate with the outside world in a few different ways. Mail arrives and leaves about once a month by plane. Satellite phone, an expensive option, is used for short conversations or for sending brief emails. Single side-band radio is used regularly to communicate with the USFWS office in Honolulu. Additionally, Tern Island is now equipped with a high speed online connection, used for internet communication.
 

Tern's new dock

       
  Red-footed Booby  

USFWS Nesting Seabird Monitoring Study
Since the 1970's, the USFWS has been monitoring the numbers of nesting seabirds on Tern Island. Because the island is so small, it is possible to census the entire population of any given seabird on the island. In addition, more in-depth studies are conducted on White Terns, Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Red-footed Boobies, Black Noddies, and Masked Boobies. For these species, a biologist/volunteer collects detailed information about nests, eggs, chicks, and fledglings within set plot areas on the island. The data are extrapolated to assess the breeding success of the species across the entire north Pacific.

       
  Bird Banding. Tern Island is a major bird banding station in the north Pacific. To "band" a bird is to put a small metal bracelet around its leg. Each band has a unique identification number. When a banded bird is found or recaptured, the band number can be referenced to find out where the bird was hatched, when it was banded, how old the bird is, etc. In one example, the fisheries industry is recording the band number seabirds found dead in fishing nets and lines. Scientists are using the information to better understand the number of birds being killed, their feeding range, and their age structure. The Tern banding station banded more Laysan and Black-footed Albatrosses than anywhere else in the Pacific (more than 2,250 birds in 2002). In addition, USFWS volunteers and staff banded hundreds of Black Noddies, Brown Noddies, Red-footed Boobies, Masked Boobies, White Terns, Wedge-tailed Shearwaters, and Bulwer's Petrels.  

Dan, Gabe, and Bernie band a Laysan chick

       
  Shawn and Suzanne on the water  

Boating on the shoals
Most researchers use Tern Island as a base from which to study the animals within the entire French Frigate Shoals. For example, USFWS staff and volunteers travel regularly to other islands to count and band seabirds. National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) staff travel daily to other islands on the atoll to census and monitor Hawaiian monk seals. The biologists use small boats to travel from island to island. Conditions are typically windy and wavy, but the unusual calm day (as pictured, left) can be a real treat.

       
  Rest and Relaxation
The work schedule on Tern is intense. Special-permit biologists, usually on the island for only a few weeks, work long hours. Other biologists work as their study subject dictates, which can be seven days a week, including nights. Most people try to take off a half or full day per week. Each person spends their down time a little differently. Reading, writing in journals, photographing the island wildlife, and watching movies are popular activities. And, of course, great beaches are available for lounging, as long as no seals or turtles have claimed the area for themselves.
 

albatrosses and beach sign

Tern Island is part of the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge, operated by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.
This site is not endorsed by and is in no way affiliated with the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.